It's all about TEA - High Mountain Tea in Taiwan

Visiting Nantou (南投) Jhushan (竹山) Tea Ceremony Association in June 2010

Tea is a drink product of the leaf buds, leaves, and internodes of the Camellia sinensis plant. Camellia sinensis is an evergreen plant which primarily grows in tropical and sub-tropical regions (e.g. my lovely hometown Taiwan). It requires at least 127 cm (nearly 50 inches) of rainfall a year (well, the north and mountain areas in Taiwan is often damp..furthermore, the typhoon season also brings lots of rain!) and prefer acidic soils. The studies of Chinese tea cultivation believe that high-quality teas are grown at high elevations, up to 1,500 meters (nearly 5,000 ft), as the plants grow more slowly and acquire a better flavor.

In Taiwan, the tea-cultivation areas are generally classified into three levels of height: low elevation (less than 500 meters above sea level), medium elevation (nearly 800 meters above sea level), and high elevation (nearly 1,000 meters above sea level).

In low-elevation areas, tea leaves can be picked throughout the year, up to seven seasons. Therefore, machinery is needed. So costs are lower and yields are higher. Some typical tea varieties cultivated in these areas are: Oolong tea (烏龍茶: Wūlóngchá), including such varieties as Dōngpiàn (冬片; literally means “winter slices”), Bùzhīchūn (不知春; literally means “not knowing spring”), and the internationally renowned Oriental Beauty Tea (東方美人茶: Dōngfāng měirén chá).

As for the medium-elevation areas for tea-cultivation, they can be found in Yunlin (雲林), Chiayi (嘉義), and Nantou (南投) in southern-central Taiwan. The altitude and moisture levels in these areas are ideal for growing tea, especially for producing half-fermented teas, such as Oolong teas of the highest quality.

In Taiwan, the tea cultivated in high-elevation areas also named “high-mountain tea” (高山茶: Gāoshānchá). The most famous growing areas are Alishan (阿里山), Shanlinsi (杉林溪), Wushe (霧社), and Lishan (梨山). Comparatively, high-mountain tea is harvested less frequently, that is, twice a year. It is harvested once in spring and once in autumn/winter when the tea grows new tea buds. The tea-pickers have to carefully select the best stems with “one bud and two leaves ” (一心二葉: yìxīnèryè) by hand. Later, the limited amount of superior tea leaves is carefully processed to the finest brews for the customers by withering, rolling, fermenting, and drying.

“one bud and two leaves ” (一心二葉: yìxīnèryè)

Its limited production quantities, higher costs, and rich flavors make it very precious and expensive. In Taiwan, the most highly-valued high-mountain tea is grown in Alishan area. Huáng dàgē (黃大哥: a very knowledgeable tea manufacturer in Taiwan) told me it is very true whenever the tea labeled “Alishan cha” (阿里山茶), it becomes the best-seller on the tea market. The price ranges from NTD 6,000 to NTD 36,000 / 600 g (roughly from GBP 17 to GBP 100 / 100g) according to different tea quality and tea manufactories.

So, if you are a big tea-fan with adventurous spirit, finding good tea cultivated in Taiwan’s mountainous regions may sound tempting to you! If you want to go straight to the source, Alishan could be the best choice. On the way, you will see many tea vendors and plantations right along the main highway (Prov. Route 18). Feel free to pull over and have a chat with the tea vendors (most of them are very friendly though barely speak English :P) while sampling the tea. To explore the spectacular views of Alishan, you can head towards to Alishan National Scenic Area to enjoy the stunning sunrise, sunset and sea of clouds.

Check the link: http://www.ali-nsa.net/english/00home/home.php for more information about Alishan National Scenic Area.

If you haven’t drunk high-mountain tea, you may wonder what makes it so special. The secret is in its leaves which contain fewer bitter and harsh-tasting elements than tea cultivated in lower-ling areas because it grows at the high altitude and free of pollution. Its leaves are also thicker and more tender. The tea has a refreshing color with a distinct mellow taste; its leaves also allow several infusions.